I always polish panel by panel, that way if I get fed up I can walk off after I finish a panel.
Carnuba wax will not bring out the colour, wax is a protection, cutting compound will bring out the colour again.
I was refering to DA's by dodo juice and Meguiars, but yes both brands do quality products. Get a small tub of dodo juice supernatural its about £10 for a 13ml pot it will do wonders in terms of long term paintwork protection.
I always polish panel by panel, that way if I get fed up I can walk off after I finish a panel.
Ben that's a bit harsh calling him a fool!
I was about to say the same thing cause no red came off my cloth with the wax, it was mostly with my scratch remover and the paint rejuvenator.
I don't doubt what either of you say.
Don't worry he already knows what to do, debo and I had a chat with him already. Just needs a machine polisher and a decent compound.
Nice work Chet, and by hand aswell! You did everything in the correct order.
I've seen the deleted posts, but wont bother re-starting what appeared to be a heated debate. What I will say is this;
Polishes and compounds are used to remove defects, return gloss and clarity to paintwork - to prepare it, basically. Wax is used for protecting the paintwork, as is a sealant - they are known as LSP's (last step products). Emphasis on the word 'last', as they are the very last thing you do to the car before walking away.
As always, I'm here to help and advise if I can.
Cheers,
Matt.
If you have any car care related questions, ask me in the Cleaning/Detailing section.
Thanks Matt!!
I would use the thanks button, however too many people are using it as a substitute 'like' button that you find on Facebook.
Next step is to get a DA and that Scholl G17 I think, you recommended a Scholl product a while back. Ill try that.
I forgot to add I used an empty windowlene bottle with water and sprayed each panel. As you can see it was raining leaves and some of the little flys were landing on my car.
On a plus note, bought the car into the car park, loads of people noticed the difference today at work. Two weeks into a new job and I'm known as the chav with a really clean car.
Just press the damn button - you said "thanks" so thank me
Scholl S17+ it is you need, very versatile product. I used some of that on Superman's Evo to restore the faded parts
If you have any car care related questions, ask me in the Cleaning/Detailing section.
Were before and afters taken?
I'm really impressed with the spoiler that looked White/orange.
Dan's got most of the work in progress pics, he should be posting them up soon mate! I think he did get some of the faded parts yeah. My arms didn't hurt afterwards and it only took me about 30mins to do bonnet, roof and bootlid . Just needed a tickle that was all. It's far easier by machine.
With regards to wet sanding, you definately need a machine to restore the gloss levels. However, you should not really wet sand by machine - for best results do it by hand. Above all this though, you really shouldn't wet sand without a PTG (paint thickness guage). Without one how will you know how much paint you're removing? Also you need various grades of paper, ranging from 1200-4000 grit. You have to go over the same area starting with the coarse grade right to the finest. Thus one panel to do properly can take several hours. It's not uncommon for a panel as large as a bonnet to take well over 10hrs including the polishing stages. After wet sanding you must compound the panel to remove the sanding marks, and then refine with a finishing polish to restore gloss and remove holgrams/buffer trails left behind by the compound. Not as straightforward as some people on the internets make out. The blokes who own the unit I do work out of do it all the time, jump in with 2000grit and then just machine polish, usually resulting in a mess (to the trained eye anyway )
Last edited by Debo; 3rd October 2011 at 16:39. Reason: added wet sanding paragraph
If you have any car care related questions, ask me in the Cleaning/Detailing section.