Reply With QuoteAs far as i can remember, if you undo the top bolt on the strut it will give you enough movement to get the driveshaft off.
In terms of disconnecting the driveshafts from the diff, is it a case of simply unbolting the umerous allen head bolts on the pass side inner CV from the diff and same on the drivers side, plus unbolting the intermediate shaft in order to drop the gearbox out? is there enough wriggle room to put the end of the passenger driveshaft out of the way or it impossible unless i pull the hub away.
any need to undo the hub nuts and draw out a hub or both hubs to allow the box to come out?
exceopt for an aligning tool any special tools required here cos it seems like a fairly straightforward nut and bolt job unless i have to start messing about with circlips and CV joints etc.......
Couldnt find a GT clutch replacement guide in the How To section..........
also should it be a straightforward exercise to separate the bellhousing from the main box as i need to fit a new gasket or apply a sealant as mines leaks oil here.
As far as i can remember, if you undo the top bolt on the strut it will give you enough movement to get the driveshaft off.
I'm sure there was a guide mate, I used it for when I was replacing mine.
The job is very easy up until the point of putting the new box in, if you're planning on doing it at home, you'll need a strong friend with a lot of patience, cause lining the box up was hard cause you have to line gearbox up and hold in position.
I would recommend new drive shaft seals, they were only £15 from Fiat, but I found at a later date my passengers side was leaking.
In terms of prep work, I was putting bigger springs on the car and a new down pipe, so I had a fair bit of room. Took about 4 ish hours with some tea breaks.
As above, putting new one in was the hard part when we done it on my old sporting, ended up breaking the clutch as we didn't line it up properly.
cheers. the diff seals i think can be replaced in situ if they fail later.
in terms of clutches - Valeo or LUK 215mm?
yeah i think the main thing is the alignment when slapping it back together.
will test my new slave cylinder first to check its not just that that needs replacing but at 137,000 Im not sure if the car is on its original clutch but i yesterday i booted it hard in 2nd just as i went from a smooth road surface to a grippy surface and the car got full traction then shot off - that might have just tipped the slave over the edge. half an hour later i got judder in 1st gear and a bit of slip flooring it in 4th from 40. the boot on the slave is split and its wet inside but having mate push the pedal in and out it the fork action seems OK. maybe when its under load the slave causes some slip/judder.
Last edited by clarkster; 28th April 2013 at 20:02.
http://www.puntosports.co.uk/forums/...clutch-on-a-GT
Found it!! Follow this mate should give you all that you need!
I got the standard Fiat clutch off a member really cheap and it was brand new in the box for £60.
Stick with the standard one (can't really suggest others)
yeah im avoiding all the paddle clutches and "performance " clutches as i think the general feeling is standard is fine and mines only putting out 170ish so plenty strong enough.
ooooh. thanks for the link chet!
never thought id imagine myself doing a clutch change but im more confident about doing it now.
the other point was splitting the box open - separating the bellhousing from the rest of the box. i can see in some pics the bolts holding them together are reached from inside the back of the bellhousing. transmission fluid is leaking on mine where these faces meet and so if i change the clutch i want to be able to sort this leak. is this a DIY job or are special tools needed. wondering if i try and separate them whether the thing will just go "poing" and loads of parts fly everywhere.
Last edited by clarkster; 28th April 2013 at 20:16.
No problem mate, if you need help let me know I'm not that far from you.
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