Haha, i see your thinking.
Yes, not al dirt is removed during foaming, however, provided your using good foam, the amount of dirt left should be a 'film'.
In other word, from a distance (lets say roughly 10 meters) the vehicle would appear pretty much clean, however looking closer you would notice it isn't.
The issue with high pressure rinsing is, that the force of the water that removes and losens the dirt, also forces along the paintwork, and therefor causes (albeit light) damage/swirling.
So to look at it differently, as 2 ways to acheive the same result:
High pressure rinse + snowfoam = light film, ready to wash
Dry dirty car + snowfoam = light film, ready to wash
Dry heavy soiled car + snowfoam x2 = light film, ready to wash.
I just wouldn't risk forcing dirt along paint, as snowfoam is an aid to prevent any need to do so.
Our aim is definately the same, just our methods not lol
Hope you dont mind my long-winded explanation!
No not at all. Everybody interprets things differently. A lot of the guides on DW state to pre-rinse the car with an open ended hose so that the water sheets the loose dirt off, and the same for rinsing after the wash - yet you see all the professionals posting in the studio and they use a pressure washer at all times. Its like wheels, some people do them first, others do them last - the end result is always the same.
Your right, and its down to whatever your happy with.
Debo how can you remove very light key scratch about a foot long,just cut the paint not into the metal ,,.
Ben, what you first need to do, is run your fingernail across the scratch - this is to determine how deep it is. If your nail catches the scratch and you can "feel" it, then it has gone through the clearcoat. In this instance, you'd be able to round the edges off, and make it less visible from certain angles (what you see is all about the way the light is reflected off the surface etc). If you can't feel it, then its superficial and would be totally removed.
On scratches that have gone through the clearcoat, I measure the paint thickness and assuming there's enough to work with, I begin by wet sanding the area, starting with 2000grit working up to 4000grit - from here the sanded area needs to be compounded to remove the sanding marks and then a fine finishing polish is used to return the gloss and ensure you're left with a hologram free finish.
On the superficial ones, I generally compound the affected area first, then switch to the finishing polish - this is generally enough, although sometimes it can be quicker to wet sand first as the compounding might take two or 3 attempts before the scratch is no longer visible!! Depends on the paint hardness tbh.
Not really something you can do without all the right equipment unfortunately, but if someone local can do it, or will show you, speak to them
Ben - see this link:
http://www.puntosports.co.uk/forums/...d.php?t=116705
Look at page 2, there's some pictures of a scratch removal I have done in the past. Is yours like that one shown?
Anything on a stainless steel sealent of some sort Matt? Just had my new exhaust come and wouldn't mind keeping the polished silencer and tip in good nick. Cheers.
meguiars nxt generation polish is pretty darn good i use that on my rims and exhaust it comes up a right treat!
Faded coloured soft top roof.
I would say it's textured vinyl.
It has loads of tar-like residue and I'm sure as hell ain't being the one to take more colour out of the hood by using tar mover.
Product recommendation please for colour enhancer and any possible ideas for safe removal of deposits?
Not 100% sure on the roof, without seeing it, but you can clean hoods with a weak dilution (10:1) of APC. That generally gets rid of most things except moss spores (which is another story, one I'm currently dealing with).
Protect it with???
http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product....EN-REVIVER-BLK
Depends on the material.
Btw, when cleaning the hood, if it's fabric type, I use APC aswell as a dedicated fabric/vinyl cleaner, so you could try that? use a medium/stiff bristled brush, and carefully brush out the dirt all over the hood - rinse with lots of water. If you've got a wet vac, get that on the job to lift out any remaining dirt. You might not need the Renovo reviver then. I found this at weekend with a 325 that I was doing, it looked a little discoloured at first, but after the above treatment I gave it, it had gone back to black.. and the amount of crap in the water at the bottom of the vac was surprising given the amount of cleaning and rinsing I did!!!
Kyle, as for a metal polish, I would avoid using this on your wheels - seaney, take note mate! as you can damage the very fine lacquer on wheels when using a metal polish (metal sealant is different than 'polish'). I personally use Britemax Final Shine metal sealant. You can pick that stuff up cheaply enough, Shinearama don't do it. Look out for the "Britemax Twins", as they are often sold as a twin pack funnily enoughyou get a heavy cut metal polish which removes heavy oxidation as I'm sure I've shown you before? you would then seal with the final shine. For you, all you'd need on a new system is final shine.... but worth getting the twin pack for future useage.
Hope this helps guys??
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