Reply With Quotewell you need the timing tools first of all. (£120ish)
the head bolt torque settings come with the head gasket kit you buy.
im not sure if the haynes manual would cover it.
Mk 2 1.2 16v Headgasket
Hey all,
I dont seem able to find any information on changing the head gasket on mk2 1.2 16v engines. Has any one got any information, i.e. locking the cams, tourque settings. etc.
Any advice would be much appreciated!
Does the haynes manual include all the information needed to carry out a HG change.
Thanks everyone!
well you need the timing tools first of all. (£120ish)
the head bolt torque settings come with the head gasket kit you buy.
im not sure if the haynes manual would cover it.
you dont need timing tools, all you need is to make a couple of reference paint marks on the top and bottom pulleys before you remove the belt.
People say you "need" to do it properly on these engines but ive done mine 4-5 times this way with no problems at all.
I'd show you the autodata sequence and torques but it i dont have it on this PC unfortunately.
i dont see how you will get the timing & tension right unless you undo the cam pulley.Originally Posted by munkul
and theres a fair few people on here, fiat forum and fiat boo who have done the tip-ex method and bent valves- hence i would not recommend.
they must have been spastics then. I fail to see how you can get it wrong tbh.
two marks on the top and bottom, slacken tensioner, take off old belt, put new belt on, put tension on front edge (therefore giving all the slack to the side with the tensioner) adjust tensioner to give tension with the sprung mechanism halfway along its travel, and thats it, bish bash bosh.
indeed it does work, but only sometimes, why else would they make the tools for it and make the cam pulley not keyed if it can be timed like an 8v.
just like the old ford zetecs, you can just stick a belt on them but when you fit the tools its nearly always half-1 tooth out, will run but its not going to run perfect.
you can cry it down all you like, but at the end of the day who out of the two of us has personally done it nearly half a dozen times?
Also, you need to be more than half a tooth out for valve to piston contact and any self respecting mechanic turns the engine over twice by hand to check these things before starting the engine - hence, spastics, lol.
I know what you mean about the 1/2 tooth, but i believe i have perfected my technique with the tension to one side thing, that way it goes back exactly the way it came out.
Theres a way to check with dowels and stuff that Dave knows, i keep meaning to try it but ending up not being arsed.
OK well I was going to use the tipex method as I have used this on previous cars Ive owned. However, I cant do that method on this engine because the guy I bought it from took the cam belt off and is not sure if he has put it back in the correct position. So I need to reset the timing.
As for the tool is it not just two metal rods that lock the cam pulley and the crankshaft in position when you apply the belt? If so can they not be substitued for something of a similar size, such as a socket?
Cheers
I've done the belt on this engine.
I got the correct timing tools for £35 brand new off ebay. If you pay more than about £70 your a fool.
You can even make your own kit out of dowel and extension bars, although the tools were easier.
From then on was quite simple.
you got lucky then! ive been looking at the prices on ebay for a while. Finally caved in and bought a set last night brand new for £65. If i see more than 1/2 a tooth difference i will eat humble pie and report back to this thread
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